Discover the best of Vieques in 5 enchanting days
Vieques, a small island municipality 7 miles off the south east coast of Puerto Rico is just 20 miles long and 4 miles wide. It’s a beautiful island with unspoiled, secluded beaches, free roaming horses and the world’s brightest bioluminescent bay. Although compact, there’s plenty of natural beauty, culture and activity to fill as much time as you have on this beautiful island. If you only have 5 days to spend on Vieques, this 5 day itinerary will allow you to get a taste of the island while you plan your return.
There are two towns in Vieques. Isabel Segunda is the main town where you’ll find the most businesses and shops. Esperanza is a small, mostly tourist destination with restaurants and a few shops. They are relatively close to each other, about a 25 minute drive to get from one to the other. This itinerary is mostly planned to minimize the amount of driving you do by grouping activities in a logical way. However, you can obviously choose to mix and match activities that suit your time and interests.
An important note: Many Vieques restaurants and activities have different hours throughout the year – open more days during the high season (December – April) with more limited hours at various other times of the year. It’s always a good idea to check the current issue of the Vieques Insider or call the restaurant/activity to confirm current hours.
Day 1: Sun Bay Beaches
Start your perfect first day with breakfast or lunch at Arenamar Cafe inside Sun Bay. Then, spend the day at the beaches inside Sun Bay.
1. SunBay Beaches
You’ll spend this first day exploring the beaches inside the SunBay entrance. SunBay is the only public beach on the island and there are facilities and a restaurant as you enter the beach. There is a $4.00 entrance fee at SunBay. We suggest you spend some time at this large stretch of beach but you can also explore some of the other beaches that are found within the SunBay entrance. Media Luna is a short drive from the main entrance and is a very calm and shallow beach that’s great for young children or anyone who just wants to wade in the ocean.
If you are feeling adventurous and want to enjoy one of the most beautiful and natural beaches on Vieques, drive to Navio beach. Navio is a bit off the beaten path but is worth the rough drive. It’s a beautiful beach and is usually great for boogie boarding but also is known for the caves to the left of the beach and the rock you can jump off to the right of the beach. Keep in mind that if it’s been rainy, the road that leads to Navio may be nearly impassable, and it will likely be rough even on a good day. It’s best if you have a jeep or other 4 wheel vehicle to get to Navio.
SunBay is located just outside the Malecon in Esperanza which is where you’ll find several restaurants and shops. If you’re hungry after visiting SunBay, we’d suggest the short drive to one of the casual restaurants there. Banana’s, Duffy’s and Lazy Jack’s all offer casual fare with an ocean view.
2. Esperanza beach and cayo de tierra hike
Park in the parking lot to the left as you enter Esperanza and walk to the Old Sugar Cane Pier. This pier represents the sugar cane heritage of Vieques but there is very little left of the pier, especially after Hurricane Maria. Next, continue to your left to walk the Cayo de Tierra trail which takes you to the Cayo, It is generally considered a moderate route, which takes an average of 27 minutes to travel. This hike is excellent for enjoying bird watching, hiking and walking, and you are unlikely to meet other people as you travel.
Day 2: Horseback Ride, Playa Negra, Playa Grande, Bio Bay
Your second day on Isla Nena will be an ambitious one now that you’re rested and settled in. All of the recommended activities are on the southeast side of the island so if you feel up to it, you could plan accordingly and spend the day on that side of the island. You can start with breakfast at one of the restaurants in Esperanza – Kristy’s or Cafe del Mar are both good choices.
1. Horseback riding
Start with horseback riding with Esperanza Riding Company. Horseback riding in Vieques provides a great way to see parts of the island you wouldn’t otherwise see, with beautiful scenery and views. All levels of riders are welcome, no experience necessary. Alternatively, if you are not into horses, you could try the Dune Buggy rides which will also show you different areas of the island.
2. Playa Negra
Next, head to Playa Negra to experience this beautiful black sand beach. The black sand comes from volcanic material that is washed down through a stream from places like Monte Pirata, creating this beautiful and unique black sand. To get to Playa Negra, take 996 through Esperanza and turn left towards La Hueca on Rt 201. Park near the Playa Negra sign and walk in. It’s a short hike to the beach and is often wet as there’s a stream running through so wear appropriate footwear. While most people just explore the beautiful surroundings, you can sun bathe and swim here as well.
3. Playa Grande
After spending some time exploring Playa Negra, Head over to Playa Grande which is another beautiful beach a little further east. Playa Grande is one of the most beautiful, natural beaches on the island. The landscape is varied and picturesque and Playa Grande is a great beach for walking, fishing and shell collecting. We have been here countless times and have almost always had the beach to ourselves. You may even see some horses strolling on the beach.
If you feel really adventurous, you can walk from Playa Grande to Playa Negra (or vis a versa), depending on the tide. It’s about a 1.2 mile walk along the beach in either direction. However, if the tide is high, there may be areas that are not easily passable so use your best judgement if you decide to walk between the two beaches and be prepared to turn back if at any point it’s too rough to pass.
Bonus Activities:
- On the way back, stop at Oro Gallery. It’ right next to Playa Negra and it has a great selection of artwork, gifts and souvenirs.
- Drive into Esperanza for lunch or dinner. Casual options include, Duffy’s, Banana’s or Lazy Jack’s.
4. Bioluminescent bay tour
Taking a biobay tour is an absolute must do when visiting as Vieques has the brightest biobay in the world. Mosquito Bay has also been named one of the seven wonders of the world by Conde Nast Traveler in 2020. The magical bioluminescence is produced by dynoflagillate which glows blue when agitated. There are several tour companies that offer this tour and our favorite has been Black Beard Sports. You should book the tour in advance, especially during the high season, and choose a night when there is not a full moon. The tour company will usually pick you up in Esperanza and bus you to the bio bay.
Day 3: VHS, Sea Glass Beach, Isabel Segunda, El Fortin
Day 3 is planned to be a little more laid back, and you will spend most of your day in or near the main town of Isabel Segunda. Isabel Segunda is the main town in Vieques with a shopping district, ferry port, restaurants and grocery stores. You’ll also find the town square and municipal buildings. Its a very colorful town and is worth spending some time here.
1. Vieques humane society
If you are an animal lover, consider spending an hour or two with some of the dogs or cats at the Vieques Humane Society. You can walk dogs and/or play with cats to help with socialization. Not only does it help to socialize these pets and help make them more adoptable, but you will also see another part of the island and enjoy a nice walk on the beach. Call VHS directly to check their hours. They are located in Santa Maria which is just a little past Isabel ll.
2. Sea glass beach
Next, head to sea glass beach in Isabel to stroll on the beach and look for Sea Glass. Bring a bag to put any sea glass you choose to keep. Sea Glass Beach is located a few streets over from the main street in Isabel and you can find it in google maps or our digital guidebook.
3. Shop and walk around isabel segunda
There are several shops in Isabel Segunda where you can find clothing, gifts and souvenirs. The town is small so it won’t take you too long to stroll around town and check out the square. A few suggested shops to check out include:
4. el fortin de conde mirasol
Next, head into Isabel Segunda and learn a little about Vieques’ history at the El Fortin de Conde Mirasol. El Fortin de Conde Mirasol sits above Isabel ll with expansive views of the ocean and town. It opened in 1991, after 2 years of intensive restoration work on the original structure. Originally built between 1845 and 1855, under orders of the Spanish Governor of Puerto Rico, don Rafael Aristegui y Valez, known as the Count of Mirasol, the fort housed militia and served as a jail.
5. Watch the sunset at the mar azul
Located a few blocks down the road from the Ferry terminal is The Mar Azul, a casual bar with good food, drinks and arguably the best sunset on the island. Make this your last stop of the day and try to get there at least 45 minutes before the sun sets to get a table out on the deck overlooking the Atlantic. It’s a great way to end a fun day exploring.
Day 4: National Wildlife Refuge Beaches, Hiking
Start your day with with a hike in the National Wildlife Refuge before heading the the beaches within the refuge. You’ll want to start the hike first thing in the morning or later in the afternoon to avoid the hottest part of the day. Then spend some time exploring some of the best beaches on the island and are worth spending a good part of the day sunbathing, swimming and snorkeling at a few of the beaches. Before you leave the refuge, be sure to see the old Puerto Ferro Lighthouse.
1. puerto mosquito nnl vista trail
This is a triangle hike located within the National Wildlife Refuge and includes an observation platform. It’s a 2.5 mile loop which should take about 1 hour. When you enter the Wildlife Refuge, take a left and the dirt road. You can start your hike there or drive up to the observation platform if you don’t want to do the whole hike.
2. la chiva, pata prieta, Playa Caracas
There are several beautiful beaches inside the National Wildlife Refuge and you can visit one or many. We’ll share 3 of our favorites. If you feel up to beach hopping, start at La Chiva which is a beautiful stretch of beach and decent snorkeling. La Chiva has numbered spots 1 – 20 and if you want to snorkel, choose 7 – 10 as the best snorkeling is out by the caye, which is most easily accessed in this area. Pata Prieta (secret beach) is a beautiful crescent shaped beach, also with decent snorkeling, mostly out by the rocks. Although there’s a sign, it still seems to be somewhat of a secret because there are not usually many other people on this beach. Lastly, Caracas is also a lovely beach and has some facilities, including bathrooms and sheltered picnic tables. It is probably one of the more crowded beaches on the islands (by Vieques standards) but is worth a visit. There are often a few horses on this beach as well.
3. Puerto ferro lighthouse
As you are leaving the National Wildlife Refuge, just before the gate you’ll find a road to your left that leads to the Lighthouse. Take that left and drive to the first or second parking lot. If you park at the first lot (on your left), it will be about 1 mile to the lighthouse. If you prefer to park closer, drive to the second parking lot and then it’s a short walk to the lighthouse. Begun under Spanish rule in 1896 the lighthouse construction was halted during the Spanish-American War. Once Puerto Rico was taken over by the United States the lighthouse was completed and became operational in 1899. Perched on a south shore cliff, Puerto Ferro was part of a strategic lighthouse plan for all of Puerto Rico guiding merchant ships carrying mostly sugar cane and cattle. The light from the 36 foot tower could be seen from any given point in the surrounding waters.
For dinner, we’d recommend El Quenepo – it is the nicest restaurant on the island and the food is exceptional. You will need to make a reservation in advance, especially during the high season.
Day 5: Monte Pirata, sugar mill ruins, crab island rum, ceiba tree
Start your last day early and explore the northeast part of the island. There’s a lot of things to see and do on this side of the island. While it seems like a lot of activities, some of the stops will be short (30 minutes or less).
1. Hike up monte pirata, highest point on vieques
Get an early start – ideally leave the house by 8:00 to avoid the hottest part of the day. There is a 1.2 mile steep paved path to the top of the mountain with an observation deck that has views of the east side of Vieques, as well as Puerto Rico, Culebra and you may even see St. Thomas and St. John on a clear day. This is a fairly strenuous hike as it is very steep but there are several benches along the way with places to rest and it’s worth the effort for the views.
To get to Monte Pirata, take 200 toward Punta Arenas. Take the first left just past the recycling center (just after the water station) and take this gravel road all the way to the little parking lot at the end.
2. military bunkers
You will pass a few of the military bunkers on your way to and from the Monte Pirata hike, so if you are interested, stop on your way back to Rt 200 to check them out. The two on that road are both colorfully painted and provide a nice photo op.
3. Sugar Mill Ruins
From the early 1800s until the 1920s, Vieques had a thriving sugar industry. But, like all sugar production in Puerto Rico, the industry declined severely in the 1930s. Sugar production was completely finished when the US expropriated the lands of the last remaining sugar mill (Central Playa Grande) on Vieques in 1941. What remains are the ruins of this sugar mill, consisting mostly of old brick and rock walls and rusting pieces of old machinery.
To get to the sugar mill ruins from Monte Pirata, turn right on Rt 200 and then right again on the road just before Mosquito Pier. Take that road about 2 miles until the road curves sharply to the left. You will see a sign that says Central Playa Grande. Park off the road and walk in.
4. crab island rum distillery
Check before you go to see if the distillery is open on the day you plan to go as their hours vary by season. Crab Island Rum is the first and only craft rum distillery on the island and has been open since 2019. You can do a rum tasting, have lunch (we highly recommend the empanadas) and on Saturdays listen to live music. They also serve alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks which will be appreciated after the hike.
To get to Crab Island Rum Diistillery from the Sugar Mill Ruins, head back out to Rt 200 and turn left on 200 and follow the sign to Crab Island Rum.
5. rompeolas (mosquito pier)
Next, stop at the mile long pier to spot fish and sea turtles. You can drive to the end of the pier and park and then walk out on the pier. If you look closely, you will often see fish swimming around the pier and may even see a sea turtle. This is a great area for snorkeling and scuba diving and you will often see snorkel tour groups out closer to the shore. You may also see people fishing from the pier early or late in the day.
6. Ceiba tree
The last stop for the day is the Ceiba Tree which is found in Ceiba Tree Park. To get there, continue on PR 200 towards town and turn left into the park. The Ceiba tree is estimated to be between 300 and 400 years old and is especially impressive to see up close due to it’s immense roots, trunk and thorns on the branches. You’ll also typically find horses grazing in the park and you can walk down to the small beach and may see pelicans diving into the water.
I hope this 5 day itinerary gives you a good starting point for planning your Vieques vacation. You could easily spend 1 week – 10 days on the island and not run out of things to do. Of course, in addition to the many activities on the island, you will also want to save some time in your day for lounging by the pool.
About Me
My husband and I own our own slice of paradise on Vieques Island and love to share it with guests when we are not there. We have been coming to the island since 2014 and purchased Villa Destino in 2015, after we fell in love with Vieques. We have been coming to Vieques 2 – 3 times a year since purchasing our home and still have not done everything there is to do on the island but try to explore new things each visit and love to share with our guests and anyone who visits. To learn more about Villa Destino, check our our website through this link Villa Destino (https://www.villadestino-vieques.com).
If you are looking for information on getting to Vieques, check out our Vieques Travel Guide.
